Hangar steak, cooked to perfect rareness, is garnished with Anderson’s beloved giardinera - a pickled-vegetable condiment - and an opulent Bearnaise sauce. A bone-in pork chop with a piquant, black-pepper-laden fennel butter is partnered with a browned polenta cake given an unexpected zing of orange zest. A stylish quadrilateral bar serves as buffer between lobby and dining area, which affords guests an open view into the kitchen.Įntrees were just as good. Its sleek contemporary look features timber, leather and blackened steel, elemental design notes softened by chocolate-brown tables and chairs and aqua banquettes all the colors are harmonized, right down to the gray stoneware and the black aprons worn by servers. Hamilton Park sits in the spanking-new Blake Hotel in downtown New Haven, named after Alice Blake, the first woman to graduate from Yale. But more casual items figure prominently in the Italian-California-New England mélange, and the chef is constantly tinkering, striving to locate the convergence point between his own culinary vision and what customers want. “We’re still fiddling around with the chicken,” chef Tyler Anderson said, “trying to figure out what’s best.”Īnderson - of Millwrights, Porron & Pina, and Square Peg Pizza - was trained in classic French technique, and his Hamilton Park menu includes foie gras and truffles. Instead of sunchokes, fennel and a peach-peppercorn glaze, now it was acorn squash, green onions, parsnips and baby potatoes. It had changed from what we’d seen in the menu online. Take, for instance, the roast chicken we had at Hamilton Park. In a new restaurant, a menu is often a work in progress. A restaurant menu is several things at once: a list of what’s purchasable, of course, but also a statement of values, and a road map for eaters.
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